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In modern society, men are increasingly moving away from rigid, traditional expressions of masculinity and toward more diverse forms of self-presentation (Lee et al., 2015). While most fashion magazines historically targeted women, recent years have seen an expansion of fashion media catering to men. Cole (2012) emphasized the central role of men’s bodies in shaping aging, masculinity, and identity (Sadkowska 2018). Merleau-Ponty (2002) argued that increased bodily awareness enables men to engage with fashion in new ways, breaking from narrowly defined appearances rooted in rational consumption.

In South Korea, the postwar baby boomer generation has been at the forefront of this change. Once associated with conservative consumption patterns, middle-aged and older men are now actively engaged in leisure, health management, and self-expression, resulting in significant shifts in fashion preferences. Historically, idealized Korean masculinity emphasized physical strength, stoicism, and patriarchal authority, particularly during the industrialization era of the 1970s and 1980s. Since the 2000s, however, rapid economic growth and evolving consumer culture have fostered new masculinities centered on personal grooming, anti-aging, and aesthetics—evidenced by the rapid expansion of the men’s cosmetics market.

South Korea is undergoing one of the fastest demographic transitions in the world. According to the United Nations (2019), the proportion of people aged 65 and older in East and Southeast Asia nearly doubled from 6% in 1990 to 11% in 2019 <Fig. 1>. Korea’s total fertility rate—0.84 in 2020—is the lowest globally, far below the replacement rate of 2.1, leading to a rapidly aging population and declining birth rates. With retirement generally occurring at age 60 (65 for certain professional roles), many older Koreans now face decades of post-retirement life. For active older adults, this extended life stage offers opportunities to redefine lifestyles, social roles, and fashion engagement.

<Fig. 1> 
Population Trends in Korea, 1960–2020.

Image source from United Nations – World Population Prospects https://population-pyramid.net/en/pp/south-korea

<Fig. 2> 
Age Structure of Korea’s Population, 2020.

Image source from United Nations – World Population https://population-pyramid.net/en/pp/south-korea

Over the past decade, older consumers have emerged as active, influential participants in cultural consumption—spanning art, leisure, dining, and fashion (Jones et al., 2017). Unlike earlier “silver generations” who prioritized savings and austerity, today’s active seniors invest in self-care and seek aesthetic, personalized clothing choices. In men’s fashion, this has translated into a shift from formal business attire to functional, stylish casual wear <Fig. 3>.

<Fig. 3> 
Lifestyle and Clothing Style Transitions of Retired Male Baby Boomers.

(Image by the author)

Although historically laggards in adopting fashion trends (Beaudoin et al., 2003) <Table 2>, Korean older men are increasingly visible as innovators, aided by media portrayals and brand campaigns that feature senior models. The A-Jae fashion phenomenon intersects with global trends such as “Gorpcore,” which embraces outdoor gear and utilitarian aesthetics. Popularized internationally and reinterpreted in Korea through figures like designer Kiko Kostadinov, this style combines practicality with bold, eclectic choices, often blurring generational boundaries.

Gorpcore, first coined by The Cut (May 2017), describes a fashion trend that elevates outdoor gear and utilitarian apparel—such as fleece jackets, hiking suits, raincoats, and parkas—into everyday style (Wallace, 2017). The term derives from “Gorp,” an acronym for “granola, oats, raisins, and peanuts,” referencing trail snacks, and blends this origin with the suffix “-core,” signaling a distinct aesthetic movement. Unlike Normcore, which emphasized plain, unremarkable everyday clothing such as mom jeans, plain sweatshirts, and sneakers, Gorpcore foregrounds functionality and technical wear, often combined in unconventional or deliberately mismatched ways.

Fashion commentators have characterized Gorpcore as an “anti-fashion” statement built on intentional absurdity—a styling approach that disregards traditional ideals of harmony, refinement, or coordinated elegance. Instead, its defining features are practicality, eclectic layering, and the recontextualization of outdoor apparel as fashionable rather than purely functional. Global high-fashion brands have appropriated Gorpcore aesthetics to reach wider audiences: for example, Armani integrated utilitarian outdoor elements into luxury ensembles during the 2020 Milan Fashion Show (Priya, 2020), while Vetements’ Spring/Summer 2018 collection exaggerated outdoor gear into avant-garde silhouettes aligned with the ethos of “fashion terrorism.” These cases demonstrate how Gorpcore has shifted from subcultural experimentation to mainstream high fashion, while maintaining its emphasis on utility and irony.

<Fig. 4(a) and 4(b)> 
Example of Korean Menswear Advertising Targeting Older Consumers. (Image source from http://www.sejung.co.kr/brand/men/wmc/page.do).

The connection between Gorpcore and A-Jae fashion becomes evident through their shared reliance on functional clothing, bold layering, and norm-defying combinations. Observations at Dongmyo Market revealed older Korean men styling colorful windbreakers with tailored trousers, pairing long wool coats with mountaineering boots, and mixing luxury sneakers with second-hand vintage items. These ensembles embody the same eclectic, pragmatic qualities that define Gorpcore, yet they emerge organically from older men’s everyday wardrobes rather than deliberate subcultural play.

What distinguishes A-Jae fashion is its reverse generational influence. Whereas Gorpcore originated among youth who adopted outdoor wear as an ironic or experimental gesture, A-Jae fashion stems from older men’s authentic style practices—later rediscovered and valorized by younger generations. This reversal disrupts traditional models of fashion diffusion, in which innovation typically flows from youth to elders, by positioning older men as inadvertent style innovators. In this sense, A-Jae fashion can be interpreted as a localized adaptation of Gorpcore that affirms older men’s agency in shaping contemporary fashion discourse, while simultaneously enabling intergenerational style exchange.

<Fig. 5> 
Connection Model for Gorpcore and A-Jae Fashion. (Image by the author)

Dongmyo Market has long been a popular shopping destination for older adults in Seoul, South Korea. Located near the historic Dongmyo Shrine and in close proximity to Dongdaemun Market—a major hub for Korean fashion, accessories, and vintage goods—this area has become a cultural landmark. The market includes a large vintage flea market, where hundreds of street vendors line the shrine’s stone walls, selling a variety of clothing and accessories.

Traditionally frequented by ajossi (“uncles”) wearing colorful outdoor clothing and high-waist trousers, the market has increasingly attracted younger visitors in search of second-hand “rescue” fashion items. While many older men continue to shop there, the merchandise—including leather jackets, denim apparel, wool coats, and fedoras—has also gained appeal among younger consumers. High-quality designer items are often sold at significantly reduced prices (e.g., a Versace sheepskin rider jacket originally priced over USD 1,000 available for approximately USD 50). Bargain-priced items can be purchased for as little as USD 1. This mix of affordability, rarity, and vintage appeal has turned Dongmyo Market into a vibrant intersection of generations and styles <Fig. 6>.

<Fig. 6> 
View of Dongmyo Market in Seoul, South Korea. (Image by the author)

This study employed a mixed-methods approach to evaluate young consumers’ perceptions of senior male fashion innovators. The research consisted of: (1) qualitative interviews with middle-aged and older male shoppers at Dongmyo Market; and (2) a quantitative survey assessing younger adults’ perceptions of senior models, A-Jae fashion, and Gorpcore. The study was approved by the Institutional Review Board (IRB/2024_46_HR).

Field observations and semi-structured interviews were conducted at Dongmyo Market during two visits in August 2023 and March 2025. Middle-aged and older men whose clothing styles stood out were invited to participate in brief conversations about their fashion choices and attitudes. Twenty men agreed to participate; five provided extended interviews (10–15 minutes). Five interviewees in Table 3 granted permission to be photographed, and three consented to the publication of their images. Interviews were conducted informally along the market’s shopping street to preserve ecological validity.

Interview prompts covered: visit motivations and frequency; items purchased; the outfit worn that day (distinctive elements, color, combinations); demographic information (age, occupation, retirement status, previous work); style change before/after retirement; and practices and perceptions regarding recycled/second-hand clothing. This qualitative phase yielded first-hand accounts of how older Korean men engage with fashion in public spaces, illuminating generational shifts in style and growing acceptance of senior fashion innovators.

In addition to interviews and surveys, on-site observations were conducted to document the clothing styles, behaviors, and interactions of older male shoppers at Dongmyo Market. This ethnographic approach provided a direct view of A-Jae fashion in its everyday setting. Common style features observed included bright color palettes, high-waist trousers, functional outdoor performance wear, and distinctive vintage accessories such as hats, leather bags, and statement footwear. These ensembles frequently combined practicality with bold personal expression, reflecting the wearer’s lifestyle and fashion sensibilities.

The observational data served as an important contextual layer, enriching the interpretation of both survey results and interview narratives. By linking visual evidence with participants’ accounts, the study constructed a holistic understanding of A-Jae fashion as both a personal style expression for older men and a source of interest for younger audiences. These field observations provided valuable contextual grounding for interpreting the survey responses and interview narratives. By linking firsthand visual data with attitudinal and experiential accounts, the study was able to capture a holistic view of how A-Jae fashion operates both as a personal style choice for older men and as a point of interest for younger audiences.

The qualitative interview data were analyzed using a multi-stage coding workflow to identify key themes related to A-Jae fashion and its cultural significance. All field notes and transcripts were transcribed verbatim and anonymized prior to analysis. First, open coding was conducted line-by-line to capture recurring ideas and expressions, including motivations for visiting Dongmyo Market, fashion practices, generational identity, and attitudes toward recycled clothing. These initial codes were created inductively from the data, but guided by prior research on fashion, aging, and cultural consumption.

Second, during axial coding, related codes were grouped into broader categories such as nostalgia, market as social space, style transformation after retirement, and fashion as self-expression. Relationships among these categories were examined to understand how personal motivations influenced fashion practices and generational positioning. Finally, selective coding was employed to identify the central themes that connected multiple categories. Three dominant themes emerged: (1) nostalgia and memory as drivers of market engagement, (2) style transformation after retirement as a form of identity reconstruction, and (3) fashion as self-expression in later life, contrasted with reluctance toward recycled clothing.

To enhance the credibility of the analysis, findings from interviews were triangulated with survey results and field observations. This comparison highlighted convergences—such as the creative mixing of old and new clothing—and divergences, notably younger participants’ receptivity to recycled clothing versus older participants’ preference for new garments. Together, this analytical process provided a holistic understanding of A-Jae fashion as a phenomenon shaped by intergenerational dynamics and reverse diffusion of style.

Among the 173 survey participants, awareness of A-Jae fashion—currently popular in Dongmyo—was relatively high: 72.8% (n = 126) reported being aware of it, 15.6% (n = 27) had “heard of it a bit,” and only 12.1% (n = 21) were unfamiliar with the term. Willingness to try A-Jae fashion was also notable, with 24.2% (n = 42) moderately willing, 29.4% (n = 51) very willing, and 20.2% (n = 35) extremely willing. Regarding Gorpcore, a style associated with the “ugly” aesthetic of A-Jae fashion, 61.5% of respondents reported familiarity, with 48.9% “familiar” and 12.6% “very familiar.” When asked whether A-Jae fashion reflects current trends, 44.8% responded “familiar” and 13.2% “very familiar,” indicating that it is widely perceived as fashionable.

Correlation analysis further clarified these associations. Fashion interest (Q1) was positively correlated with willingness to adopt A-Jae fashion (Q5) (r = .273**, p < .01) as well as with perceived trend relevance of A-Jae fashion (Q9) (r = .179*, p < .05). In addition, awareness of A-Jae fashion (Q3) was moderately correlated with familiarity with Gorpcore (Q6–Q7 composite) (r = .214**, p < .01). These findings indicate that participants who reported greater fashion interest were more open to adopting A-Jae fashion and perceived it as more trend-relevant, while those more aware of A-Jae fashion also tended to recognize its conceptual overlap with Gorpcore aesthetics.

Field observations revealed that A-Jae fashion often features innovative pairings, such as colorful windbreakers with sweatshirts and suit pants, or long wool coats paired with mountaineering boots and soft hats. Older men were observed mixing luxury sneakers and branded outdoor wear with existing wardrobe staples, creating bold and distinctive looks. Popular items included leather jackets, denim clothing, and fedoras, often sourced from second-hand shops at affordable prices.

Survey data supported these observations: 45.3% of participants rated A-Jae fashion as “very innovative,” and 36.6% as “innovative.” Nearly half (49.4%) expressed willingness to wear it, while 81.4% viewed older adult fashion positively. Although younger consumers tended to be brand-sensitive, A-Jae fashion appears to be attracting younger fashion innovators and bridging generational style boundaries.

Interviews with older male shoppers at Dongmyo revealed strong personal connections to the market, often tied to nostalgia, affordability, and social interaction <Table 5>. Participants described Dongmyo as a place to “see and buy nostalgia” (Interviewee A), “a healing time” offering unique finds at low prices (Interviewee B), and “an attractive alternative to department stores” (Interviewee C). Some likened it to a “playground” free from social judgment (Interviewee D).

The neighborhood where I used to live, Dongmyo, is where you can reminisce about the past with a lot of old memorabilia. Here is where you can feel the traces of time. I can see and buy nostalgia, retrospectives, and relics of the past. Here I can choose various things by being the subject. (Interviewee A)

There are many different kinds of old [things]. There are a lot of different foods that I enjoy. Dongmyo shopping is a healing time for me. The price is cheap and there are many good, old items. There is a pleasure that cannot be compared to a department store. (Interviewee B)

I like to go to department stores, but Dongmyo is another attractive place. It is a place where you can meet friends and buy various items at a reasonable price. It’s nice to have traces of the past and be able to enjoy time at will. (Interviewee C)

There are many old-fashioned items, and I come here often because there is an old custom store that reminds me of my frequent past visits. There are many things I want to buy. It’s like a playground for me, where I can enjoy my time at will without worrying about other people’s gaze. (Interviewee D)

Several interviewees described significant shifts in their style after retirement (mean Likert rating = 9.8/10). For example, Interviewee A recalled moving from formal suits in his 20s–30s to casual wear in his 40s–50s, and now actively seeking clothing reminiscent of his youth. Others highlighted the importance of clothing for self-expression, comfort, and matching personal tastes, with many preferring bright colors and casual styles over outdated outdoor wear. Interviewees who demonstrated A-Jae fashion were asked what clothes and style changes meant to them in the past and present.

I choose clothes that match my skin color and face. I independently choose clothes I want and like. I like to wear clothes that are simple and easy to wear and prefer clothes that make me look younger. I usually don’t like outdoor wear, except when hiking or exercising. I often wear outdoor pants, but these days, I prefer to wear jeans. When I went to work, I mostly wore suits, but now, I like to wear simple casual clothes. I wear suits only on special occasions, and usually I like to wear comfortable clothes. I like sweatshirts, shirts, jeans, sneakers, and hats with a brim, and I like blue, green, and pastel tones. (Interviewee C)

These narratives were subsequently coded through a multi-stage process (open, axial, and selective coding). The coding results are summarized in Table 5, which illustrates how individual interviewee statements (e.g., nostalgia, healing, casual style preferences) were grouped into broader categories and core themes. As shown, four central themes emerged—nostalgia and memory, style transformation after retirement, fashion as self-expression, and Dongmyo as a social and healing space—providing a structured interpretation of the interview data.

Although Dongmyo is associated with second-hand fashion, interviewees rarely purchased recycled clothing themselves, citing preferences for new garments. Some mentioned using platforms like Carrot Market for other goods but showed little interest in buying used apparel. Instead, they valued the market experience itself—browsing, reminiscing, and reconnecting with past styles—over acquiring recycled clothing for practical purposes.

Past studies have often characterized older men’s dress as conservative, with limited influence from changing fashion cycles (Twigg, 2007). However, recent scholarship challenges this view, showing that style and identity remain closely connected in later life (Goode, 2017). Everyday dressing can also be seen as a creative practice (Almila & Zeilig, 2022), even outside traditionally “creative” professions.

In South Korea, A-Jae fashion offers a new perspective on men’s style, demonstrating that older men can be trendsetters. The integration of Gorpcore elements into A-Jae fashion signals a shift in public perception, breaking generational and gender boundaries in fashion consumption and positioning older men as visible contributors to contemporary style culture.